Reprinted from The Underground News Volume 15, Number 2, Sept. 1988
NIELSONS: A Caving Adventure
By Ken Stahley
With Contributions By:
Mike Beer (NSS 16938)
Rodney D. Horrocks (NSS 251107)
& Jim Nicholls (NSS 15216)
FIRST
TRIP
The cave was originally "discovered" by Jim
Nicholas and me in the fall of 1986. I was told about a large opening, that
looked to be very deep, by a friend of mine from Logan, Utah. He had come
across the pit opening several times while hunting for elk in northern Utah,
and had drawn me a map of the location of the hole with respect to the
surrounding features.
On the weekend of August 23, 1986 Jim Nicholls and I
set out to locate and drop the pit. Jim carried 300 feet of PMI Flex and I
carried Jim's 85 feet of Bluewater II and my 200 feet of Bluewater II. We
started up the trail according to the map that my friend had drawn. After about
2 hours we came to the landmark where we were supposed to leave the trail. For
lack of a better name, we called it Left-hand Canyon. Another half hour
of hiking brought us to the second landmark, the "rock in the middle of
the meadow", we needed in order to locate the pit. We set our packs down
in a clearing and began a ground search in the surrounding heavy timber. I set
out to the right, Jim set out to the left. We had only walked about a hundred
yards and had been separated only 5 minutes when I heard a loud rebel yell
coming from my left. As I ran toward Jim's enthusiastic bellowing I thought to
myself "That's about the easiest cave I've ever searched for and found."
I made my way over to Jim and saw him perched near the edge of a clearing that
had no forest floor. I looked upon what may be the largest pit entrance that
either of us will ever find.
The opening trends east-west and is about 50 feet long and 30 feet wide. It is
well hidden among a large stand of evergreen trees with trunks at least 3 feet
in diameter. The trees are obviously remnants of the original forest that once
covered the whole mountainside. About 25 feet down from the lip on the north
side of the pit was a large ledge. Below that, nothing but darkness. We tossed
in some rocks to time their fall, but the rocks kept hitting walls on the way
down so we could not get an accurate fall time.
We had not expected to find the cave so easily but
we had come prepared to drop the pit just in case. Now it was time to gear up
and go down. We tied off the 300-foot rope to one of the huge trees, tied
a knot in the end of the rope, then let the rope down the pit. Jim and I had
previously decided that since I had found the initial information on the pit I
would be the first one down the awesome throat of the cave.
I rigged up and weaved the rope through my rack. Jim
said "Happy caving" as I backed over the edge. I was about 2 feet
over the lip when the stitching in my seat harness began to tear. I quickly
clenched my fingers around the rope as Jim was reaching out to grab me. I
muscled my way back to the top of the lip with Jim's help. Strangely enough I
was not shaken at all. We assessed the damage and discovered that nearly all
the stitching on the front loop of the harness had ripped out. I made a
makeshift harness out of along piece of 1-inch webbing and knots, and
again backed over the edge of the pit.
This time everything held together and so I
continued my descent. As I cleared the second lip at 25 feet I looked over my
shoulder down a long, vertical, slightly twisting pit about 10 feet in
diameter. Of course, I kept yelling up the pit to Jim to keep him apprised of
my progress. Continuing down slowly all I could think about was "This is
the neatest pit I've ever been down. It just goes and goes!" Finally,
after some time, I came to a small, sloping ledge just big enough to stand on.
I stopped there to get my bearings. As I looked back up the tube I could barely
see the tops of the large fir trees that overhung the pit entrance. Looking
down over the small ledge into the pit I could just make out the white smear of
a residual snowbank. I whipped the rope back and forth to try to put the
snowbank into perspective and was very surprised to see the knot at the end of
the rope dangling in mid-air. Another first for me! I could not determine
how far above the snow the rope was dangling, but the snowbank looked flat and
easy to land on if the rope had reached to the snow.
Fortunately I'd had the forethought to wear my
ascending gear while rappelling this particular pit. Whatever the reason, I was
certainly glad I already had it on. I yelled up the pit to tell Jim what I was
doing and then I began changing over to my ascending gear while still on the
small ledge, then climbed out of the pit.
Back on the surface I told Jim what I had seen. We
decided to pull the rope up and tie the 85-foot Bluewater II onto the 300-foot
rope. We tied the ropes together then Jim geared up and dropped the pit. After
a few minutes I heard a faint but wild yell followed by an even fainter cry of
"Off rope." Then, silence for the next 45 minutes. Just as I was
beginning to get a little worried, I saw the rope move and soon heard the
reassuring call from below, "On rope, climbing." It took Jim quite a
while to climb out of the cave and it was getting to be mid-afternoon
when he reached the surface.
We pulled up the rope and made a rough measurement
as we coiled it to determine how much had been in the pit. It was at least 350
Meet from the lip of the entrance to the bottom of the snowdrift (which really
turned out to be a large, steep sided, snow cone about 40 feet high) at the
bottom. "Wow, MAJOR PIT."
While we were packing our gear for the trip back
down to the car, Jim described the bottom of the pit in detail. He told me of a
very large room, maybe as much as an acre in area. The 45 minutes that I was
anxiously waiting for Jim, he spent circumnavigating the wall of the room over
large breakdown. One lead was visible at the intersection of the breakdown and
the wall. The ceiling appeared to be at least 50 feet high in most places.
Now, the bad news. As soon as Jim had gotten off
rope at the bottom of the pit, he looked up at a fairly large boulder in the
center of the room and saw a small jar sitting on top of a well placed rock
cairn. The pit was not virgin, a disappointment. The jar contained a piece of
paper in a zip-lock bag and a small pencil. The paper had two entries on
it. Jim copied down the names of the persons on the register, then added our
names to the register. The dates on the register of the previous visits were
March 1985 and March 1986. It was time to go. We ascended the pit, coiled the
rope, and began our hike back to the car.
On the drive home we stopped in Logan and looked up
the names from the register in the local telephone directory. Two of the names
were listed, but when we tried to call we received no answer. Not ones to give
up easily we wrote down the location of one and traveled to the street address.
Nobody was home. Just as we were about to leave a note pinned to the door, a
car pulled into the driveway. We introduced ourselves and our business
(spelunking). We learned from the man in the car that he and two friends were
rock climbers and had heard about the pit from a local hunter. Being bored by
the run-of-the- local climbing they decided that they would
go drop the pit. He and his friends had tied three, 11millimeter dynamic ropes
together to make their initial descent using Figure eights. He described the
room pretty well and even mentioned the side lead. The climber also mentioned
that their climb out was at least an epic feat. Jim and I were worried that our
discovery had already been discovered and was therefore of no consequence.
However, the climber assured us that he was not a caver and had no real
interest in returning to the pit or of telling anyone else about it.
On the way home Jim and I decided we had to go back for
two reasons. I had to officially get to the bottom of the pit and we had to see
if the side lead went anywhere.
SECOND TRIP
The second trip to "Nielson's Well" was on
October 27, 1986. 1 had decided to name the cave after my friend because he is
the one that told us about the pit and gave us such good directions.
As we parked the car and were getting our packs
ready, my friend who told me about the cave and a friend of his pulled up with
their horse trailer. They were going elk spotting for the hunt the following
weekend. I introduced Jim to them. We talked a few minutes then naively set off
up the trail in a heavy, wet snowstorm. Soon after we got on the trail the two
horsemen overtook us. The hike to the cave this time was much more arduous
because the farther up the trail we hiked the deeper the snow became. About 2
hours later, we met the horsemen returning to the truck, beaten by the snow. We
were alone on the trail. Jim and I continued on. We hiked about 4 hours to get
to the cave. We were tramping up in an early fall snowstorm. None of the Aspen
trees had yet dropped their leaves. The hardwood and softwood trees would
occasionally let lose a barrage of wet snow upon us without warning. It was
like having a snowball fight with God. When we arrived at the pit about 12 to
18 inches of fresh snow covered everything.
With the heavy snowstorm and the sun setting early
this time of year we knew we had limited time at the cave. The light would fade
before sunset, and we did not want to be stranded in the mountains in the wet
snow.
We quickly rigged the rope and dropped the pit. We
had taken Jim's 300-foot and his 85-foot ropes again, so we would
have to cross a knot both during the rappel and during the ascent. I had
obtained a different and better sewn harness system so I was not pensive about
dropping the pit, even after thinking about it for 2 months. While I was on
rappel one of the large fir trees that overhung the pit entrance decided to
dump its accumulation of snow. I heard a "whooshing" noise above me.
I looked up. A white mass of snow was coming down the pit at me. Not knowing
the weight or the ferocity of a "snow dump" I quickly wrapped the
rope around my back to jam my rack, and then I just hung on. It turned out to
be no big deal though, because the snow had broken up during its fall. The only
damage was snow on my camera and down my neck. We both reached the bottom with
no problems crossing the knot.
When we reached the bottom we made a tour of the Big
Room. I spent considerable time trying to push the small side lead. It was
taking air! My first attempt to squirm into the lead was fruitless. I backed
out and took off my helmet, then tried again. I made about six feet of
progress. I backed out again and this time removed my wool shirt and wool pants,
since they were snagging on the walls of the crack I was trying to enter. I was
able to squeeze, twist, and turn my way about 15 feet down the tight, vertical
crawl until I came to a split in the passage. The passage on the left dropped
about 10 feet to damp, pebble covered floor and appeared to continue on
underneath me. The passage on the right continued as a vertical crawl. I knew
it was the passage to push because it was taking such a strong breeze. I
decided to return to the Big Room though because of time limitations and
because I did not think caving in my wool "longies" was appropriate
when I needed them to be dry for the hike out.
While I was checking the side lead, Jim had explored
the Big Room and brewed some hot apple cider on the stove he had brought with
him. After drinking the hot cider we made a quick circumnavigation of the room
and then ascended out. The ascent out of the pit was uneventful with no
problems incurred while crossing the knot. We didn't begin the hike out to the
car until well after dark. Our dim head lamps gave us ample light to find our
way down the trail. The sparkling blanket of snow spread our beams of light
well out in front of us. We were famished, tired and hungry, and our food
supply was depleted, with only a half loaf of French bread remaining. We sat
down in the new-fallen snow to rest and devoured the bread before
continuing our labored hike to the car. When we arrived at the car it was well
after 10:00 P.M. We were cold, wet, tired, and still hungry, yet we retained
our excitement for the cave.
THIRD TRIP
Since winter had closed in on the high country, we
didn't visit Nielson's Well again that season. The next visit to the cave would
be a reconnaissance trip by myself to determine if the pit was accessible by another
route and if the snow had melted enough to even get to the cave.
I started on a cool afternoon in March 1987, and
hiked up the ridge where the cave is located instead of hiking up the canyon
bottom as we usually did. The new route would take me 2000 feet vertically in
just about a 2 mile hike. I made it to within 2 hundred yards of the cave (but
didn't know it) before the snow was too deep to flounder through. I returned to
the car knowing that the new route took less time even though it was much steeper.
I had made it to the general area of the cave and back to the car in under 3
hours with only a day pack.
FOURTH TRIP
Jim and I made the next trip to Nielson's Well in mid April 1987. I showed him the new route. It was a more aesthetic route and shorter than the old route. By aesthetic, I mean the new route follows a knife edge ridge up to a quartzite band which forms a cliff. From there the route proceeds into stunted aspens and finally onto grass covered ridges. The vistas along the route are breathtaking, as well as revealing, because many outcrops and layers of limestone are visible.
We arrived at the usual roadway turnoff. We had a
nice hike up the hill and when we reached the area I had been to earlier I
decided the cave must be farther up the ridge. We hiked up the ridge as far as
we could until we were in waist deep snow. Our clothes were soaking wet and we
were getting cold. We stopped on a large outcrop of rock to eat lunch and dry
out in the sun while we evaluated our surroundings.
Jim finally convinced me that we were too far up the
ridge and suggested we go back down. It took about a half-hour to
negotiate the steep slopes in the deep snow until we got back down to where the
snow was only about a foot deep. Jim walked me right to the cave. It was at
this moment that I realized I had been within only two hundred yards lateral to
the entrance on my previous trip. We noticed immediately that one of the large
fir trees near the entrance had fallen during the winter and had knocked over
one of our anchor trees, a smaller spruce. However, the horizontal log of the
large fir would now make a very good anchor for future pit drops.
We returned to the car uneventfully.
FIFTH TRIP
Jim made the next trip to the cave by himself to haul
water in preparation for a future overnight camping trip during which we hoped
to survey the Big Room and the pit. We had to haul water since there were no
springs or streams within miles of the entrance. During this trip Jim began a
cache of water with hopes of adding equipment to it later.
SIXTH TRIP
Jim made the sixth trip to the cave alone on May 9,
1987, again to haul water and other associated camping equipment in preparation
for the "big push". He had decided that caching the basic necessities
like fuel, extra food, and a tarpaulin would help back up any future
explorations with a cushion. If a large system was to be discovered we would
need all the help we could get from extra supplies and people.
SEVENTH TRIP
Jim and I had by now decided that we should involve
another person in our cave exploration of Nielson's Well for safety reasons. It
would be much safer if someone was on the surface while the minimum of two
cavers were in the cave. We discussed the matter at length and decided that for
secrecy reasons we should choose someone unfamiliar with the area who was not
concerned with Utah/NSS Grotto politics.
We chose a friend of mine, Mike Beer, living in
Pocatello, Idaho. Mike is a former member of the Shining Mountains Grotto
located in Bozeman, Montana at the same time I was a member there. We had done
a few caves together in Montana. Mike's biggest accomplishment as seen from the
rest of the caving community was his discovery of Columbine Crawl, currently
the deepest known cave in the United States.
I called Mike and questioned him on his cave
politics as far as "secret" caves were concerned. After several other
questions with favorable answers I told Mike what we had done so far in
Nielson's Well and invited him on our next trip down. He was enthusiastic to
say the least.
Plans were made to drop the pit on May 16, 1987.
Mike drove from Pocatello on Friday night and stayed at my house. Early on
Saturday morning Jim drove up from Salt lake City to meet us. We loaded gear in
my car and took off for the mountains. I had recently purchased a 600 foot
piece of PMI rope and was ready to use it for the first time. It would be nice
to drop the pit without having to cross a knot, but the hike up with the entire
600 feet of rope coiled on my back was excruciating. With all our other gear,
such as vertical gear, camping equipment, food, extra clothing, and water, our
packs weighed in at about 75 pounds.
Halfway to the cave I finally gave up and accepted
help from Mike in carrying one of the three 200-foot coils we had created
from the long piece. (I didn't want to cut the rope into the necessary length
to do the pit because we had high hopes of needing the entire 600 feet
somewhere else in the cave.) We finally got to the cave after a long, hot hike
in the sun. We quickly set up camp, and Jim and I rigged up to drop the pit
with Mike remaining on the surface as safety.
We rigged the pit with two ropes, one was the 600-foot
PMI and the other was a 300-foot PMI Flex tied to an 85-foot piece
of Bluewater II. The reason for the two ropes was to facilitate the survey of
the pit since there was a slight corkscrew to the pit and it could not be
directly plumbed.
Jim had brought a set of voice activated FM radios
in hopes that we could communicate with the surface for calling out climbing
terms such as "Off rope" and for emergency use if necessary. Jim felt
that to protect the location of the entrance, FM radios were a must. They would
eliminate any chance of nearby hunters or hikers hearing our excited calls up and
down the pit. We had also seen a large number of bats flying around the
entrance at night and suspected that they lived in the cave somewhere. Not
wanting to disturb them, but needing to communicate between the surface and the
Big Room, the radios seemed to be the perfect solution (Ed. Note: Yelling up
the pit is nearly impossible anyway).
I dropped the pit first on this trip and was wearing
one of the radios while Mike was wearing the second radio on the surface. The
radio communication worked quite well for about the first 200 feet but then
began to break up at the small ledge. When I rappelled into the Big Room I
completely lost radio contact and had to resort to the "Yell at the top of
your lungs" form of communication.
Jim dropped the pit after me on the two lengths of
Bluewater II we had tied together for survey purposes. He was descending just
fine until he reached the double water knots holding the two ropes together. He
had crossed knots successfully before so was not expecting any trouble, but this
time he set his Jumar between his rack and the knot. As soon as the Jumar was
attached to the rope it jammed between the rack and the water knot because the
rack continued to act as if in the normal rappel mode.
He swore a few times, then started to fiddle around
with the whole mess trying to undo the jam, all to no avail. After about 5
minutes with no success he asked me if I could come up and help him. I thought
I might have to go up to help him so I had already donned my ascending gear and
attached myself to the PMI rope.
I climbed my PMI rope up to the level where Jim was
hanging from his ropes, about 60 feet above the floor and about 20 feet above
the top of the snow cone. I set my Jumar and looked the situation over. We
agreed that I should get Jim's prussik ropes from his pack. Meanwhile, Jim was
holding onto the rappel rack which he had wrapped with the rope to prevent any
further slippage. Together we managed to get the prussik knots onto the rope,
one knot connected to one of his feet and the other to his seat harness. He
then "climbed" the rope a few inches to take slack off the rack and
Jumar. After the slack was off he had to hang from his seat harness and raise
his legs into a crouch so that enough of the rope was available to loosen the
jammed rack and Jumar.
After the Jumar was free he set it above the
prussiks and then hung from the Jumar while he removed the rack from above the
knot and re-attached it below the knot. He wrapped the rack twice to hold
his position on the rope and then removed the two prussiks and the Jumar.
Finally, he was able to rappel down to the floor and get off rope. I was still
on rope with my ascending gear, but I wanted to descend. I was sure I could get
my rack attached to the rope and rappel but since I was only about 60 feet up I
decided just to "reverse" rope walk. Although it works, reverse rope
walking is very time consuming.
On reaching the bottom, Jim and I immediately began
to survey the Big Room, moving counterclockwise from the "Register
Rock" (station 00). The first survey consisted of 14 stations. Jim took
readings on the compass and 'cline while I ran the tape, an easy task for my
first survey job. We surveyed about two thirds of the Big Room, but were unable
to finish the other third because the snow cone was impossible to negotiate
without ice climbing gear. However, we did make one shot of 100 feet on the
south wall of the Big Room.
During the survey Jim and I discovered a lead we
hadn't seen before. It was on the "south" wall at the intersection of
the breakdown and the wall, and it was BLOWING AIR. Not only was it blowing air
but right at the entrance of the lead were two skulls. One skull appeared to be
that of a large rodent because of the long, curved, chisel-like teeth.
The second skull was associated with a nearly complete spine and appeared to be
some sort of cat remains. We didn't disturb any of the bones. We were getting
cold though, so before pushing the lead we finished the circumferential survey
of the Big Room (except for the ice/snow area). We ascended out into a
thunderstorm which was bearing down on our camp.
We made it back to camp and started cooking before
the rain began. We ate in the rain, which continued to fall throughout the
night. The tarp we were using as a shelter began to leak. But, because we were
so tired we really didn't care. We just covered our sleeping bags with whatever
we could find, or shifted our positions to avoid the drops, and fell asleep. It
rained hard all thru Saturday night but cleared by morning.
On Sunday morning, all ate breakfast independently
according to what each person wanted, i.e. there was no community dining. After
breakfast Mike and I rigged up and dropped the pit. Mike was quite excited, as
he had never done a pit like this one, so deep and with an exit through the
ceiling of a big room. Since it was Mike's first time in the cave we took a
tourist trip around the room, culminating at the entrance to the "Bone
Lead". We had decided that Mike and I would push the Bone Lead for about
100 feet to see if it was passable. The entrance was quite a squeeze to prevent
crushing any of the bones, but once past the squeeze, the passage opened up
into low walking and some crawlway passage. About 50 to 70 feet from the Bone
Lead entrance, the passage split. We followed the air down the virgin crawl
until I noticed a strange looking "rock" buried in the loose dirt on
the floor. The rock turned out to be the cap of another, much larger skull;
this one also appeared to be that of a cat of some type. Mike and I built a rock
cairn around the semi-buried skull to protect it from accidental
crushing. Only another 10 feet down the passage was a belly crawl directing
downward at a lateral angle with a slight curve in it. I went in headfirst
knowing that to back out would be very difficult. I crawled down about 15 feet
when the crawl opened up at the brink of a large diameter pit. Beautiful! The
cave keeps going!
The pit looked to be about 20 feet across. I tossed
in a few rocks to estimate the depth, and they kept hitting the far wall so I
couldn't get very good timing on them. I conservatively estimated the depth of
the second pit at 35 -50 feet. However, it looked much deeper.
I reported to Mike what I had found and he responded
to me that he was hearing my voice come back to him through a different lead.
He crawled down that lead which went directly to the pit. He was unable to
negotiate it all the way to the pit though because of a dirt fill. We explored
a little bit more of the Bone Lead but came up with nothing more. We didn't try
too hard because we didn't want to scoop Jim; besides, the air was coming up
the pit and we didn't have a rope to get down it. Mike and I backtracked out of
the Bone Lead and climbed to the surface where we told Jim what we had found.
We took the time to enlarge our cache of gear. We
stowed it in five-gallon buckets and buried them some distance from the
cave entrance. It was time to go. Jim had been breaking camp while we were in
the cave. It didn't take long for Mike and me to get packed and we were all
back on the trail down to the car. We had a very productive trip to the Well.
We had hoped that it could turn into something major and this particular trip
indicated fully that the potential was there!
Our hike back to the car began in a heavy downpour.
The grass was wet and slippery and the muddy hillsides were impossible to walk
on. We stumbled, slipped or fell. Even worse, Mike and I didn't have rain gear.
A 2-hour hike through chesthigh brush left us soaked to the bones and
shivering. It's a good thing that cars have heaters in them!
EIGHTH TRIP
On June 27, 1987 Jim and I made a water and gear-hauling
trip to Nielson's Well while attempting to find a new and easier route to the
cave. Logistics problems were killing
us and we needed to find an easier way to the cave.
By studying the topographical maps, we had found a
marked road that came within 2 1/2 miles of the cave, but at an elevation 200
feet higher. According to the map we should be able to leave the car at the new
drop-off point, walk to the cave down one valley and up the next, deposit
our gear and water, then walk down the ridge the way we had been doing
previously to get to a second car left behind earlier.
The plan worked exactly as expected except that the
temperature in the mountains that day was at least in the eighties. I became
severely dehydrated and overheated and had to make many more rest stops than
normal. The hike out was one of the most miserable hikes I've ever made. Ironically,
we were hauling water to the cave for storage and so I drank only from the two
quarts I had planned to use for hiking purposes and didn't violate the 6 quarts
extra I was carrying for the cache. When I reached the second car, which was
parked by the river, I stripped naked and sat down in the icy waters of the
river which didn't feel icy at all to my overheated body. After about 5
minutes, I felt cool enough to get out and get ready for the drive home. Had it
not been for fear of contracting gjardia, I could have drunk the entire river
dry.
NINTH TRIP
Finally, time for the big push! Attendees were to be
Mike Beer of Pocatello, Idaho; Rod Horrocks of Provo, Utah; Jim Nicholls of
Salt Lake City, Utah; and me, from Layton, Utah.
I had taken Rod on a vertical evaluation at Boomerang
Cave to determine if he was capable of negotiating Nielson's Well. Although he
lacked his own gear and was a little "rusty", I deemed his skills to
be adequate for a drop into Nielson's and, more importantly, an ascent out of Nielson's
Well. Rod Horrocks had been interviewed by Jim and me satisfactorily and was
brought into the project because of his experience in paleontology. We wanted
an expert to catalog and retrieve the bones in the Bone Lead.
Rod was supposed to meet at Jim's no later than 5:45
A.M. on July 3, 1987. They were supposed to meet at my house in Layton no later
than 6:30 A.M. and we were all supposed to meet Mike in Logan between 7:30 and
7:=15 A.M. Our original plan included 2 trips into the cave on Friday, 2 trips
on Saturday, and 1 on Sunday. We were going to complete the survey on
the Big Room, survey the Bone Lead, remove the bones from the Bone Lead (with a
permit), survey up the main pit, and finally drop and survey the second pit.
What happened in actuality bears little resemblance to the plan.
Rod called Jim and said he would be a little late.
It turned out to be only 5 minutes. However, Rod was not yet packed and Jim had
to help him get his pack together. During packing Jim noticed that Rod didn't
have nearly enough food for a 3-day outing, and so had to steal some food
from his own kitchen while his wife, Alyson, sat by laughing at the two of
them. Jim called me and said they would be late. I said, "Make it here by
6:45 A.M., if at all possible." They arrived at about 7:10 A.M. and we
hurriedly packed and got on the road by 7:20. We got to Logan at 8:20 but Mike
wasn't at the meeting place. We waited an hour, then drove up to the turnoff to
the cave that Mike knew about. He wasn't there either. We waited there for an
hour, then drove to Logan to call him in Pocatello to see if something had come
up. I let his phone ring 15 times; no answer. I called my wife, Linda, to see
if Mike had called after we had left that morning to say he would be late. Mike
had not called there. So, we decided we would go caving without Mike.
We drove to the new turnoff to the cave. After
several miles of rough dirt road, we spotted Mike's white Trans Am parked in
the brush at the top of the hill. I checked it out but there was no gear
inside. Mike must have started off hiking. But when?
We parked our car and started hiking to the cave at
1:00 P.M. We had already missed the planned morning trip into the cave. We
arrived at the cave at 3:00 P.M. and began setting up our "second camp".
At 4:00 P.M. Mike arrived at the campsite. He had taken a long circuitous route
to the cave since he had never been in from the new route before. He said that
he had been about 15 minutes late to the pickup point, that since I had been so
vocal about being punctual, we probably had left him, so he decided to hike to
the cave on his own. What enthusiasm!
After setting up camp, we had supper and discussed
the upcoming weekend. We decided since it was well after 6:00 P.M. and the
weekend was expected to be so hot, Jim and I would go back to the car and bring
back three more gallons of water each while Mike and Rod would make a surface
survey of the many small sinks in the surrounding area. Jim and I left at 6:30
P.M. and returned at 9:30 P.M. just as Mike and Rod were finishing up the
survey. At 11:00 P.M. we all went to bed.
On
July 4, 1987 I was awake at 6:00 A.M. but didn't get up until 7:00 A.M. Jim was
up right after me but Mike and Rod stayed in the sack somewhat longer. Everyone
wasted as much time as possible and finally Mike dropped the pit at 12:00 noon,
Rod followed, and Jim went down last. I stayed on the surface as a safety
person. It was about 1:00 P.M. and we would have our first radio check at 4:00
P.M.
Mike had brought 400 feet of small-gauge wire
to act as a transmission wire down the pit so that Jim's FM voice-activated
radios would give us communication with the surface. The transmission wire
worked well and I could talk to the radio in the cave at any location within
the Big Room.
At the 4:00 P.M. radio check, the men in the cave
reported that they were cold. The Bone Lead survey was nearly complete down to
the brink of the second pit. The skulls and various other bones had been
collected. Mike, Jim, and Rod decided to come out. They ascended the pit with
Jim coming out last. He surfaced about 6:00 P.M.
That evening, in camp at supper, Jim and I decided
that we would go in again that night to finish surveying the Big Room and to
set a good survey point at the top of the snow cone. I dropped the pit at 8:30
P.M. and de-rigged at the bottom. Just about that time Mike radioed that
Jim had fallen asleep during my rappel (it wasn't all that long of a rappel)
and had decided upon awakening at my call of "Off rope" that it would
be safer if he didn't make the trip again that night. Disappointed, I put all
my gear back on and ascended out. During my ascent I stopped for a rest about
10 feet below the 2-foot ledge (The Resting Ledge). I looked to my right
and could see a crack with a few cobbles choked in it. My light shined into it
at least 20 feet into what looked like a narrow room. However, it was
inaccessible without the use of bolts. I continued my ascent out of the cave.
We all went to bed that night at 11:00 P.M. thinking that Jim and I would enter
in the morning to finish the Big Room survey.
I awoke in the middle of the night with a severe
headache that kept me awake for at least 3 hours. I was finally able to get
back to sleep about 5:00 A.M. and slept until 7:00 A.M. When I got up my head
was still pounding and I was nauseous. I prepared to go in the cave and was
ready by 8:30 A.M. but I could not make myself walk down to the cave entrance,
another trip cancelled.
Jim
had to drop the pit by himself to retrieve the survey gear that had been left
in the cave overnight. After his ascent we packed up our belongings, broke
camp, and headed back to the cars. Jim and I hiked out through the bottom of
the canyon since it was all down hill and I was ill, and it was the same
distance as going back to the cars. Rod drove my car down off the hill to pick
us up at the highway. We had a discouraging and disrupted cave trip (Ed. Note:
Of the three trips planned for the weekend, we were only able to complete the
one).
TENTH TRIP
On July 12, 1987 Jim Nicholls and I made another
trip to Nielson's Well. After the rigors and disappointment of the weekend
before we were still "up" for more of the cave. We had previously
decided that no more trips would be made until August because of schedule
conflicts; however, Jim and I discovered that we had at least one more weekend
that coincided during July. So, on July 9 we decided that we could do a one
week turnaround to the cave.
We started earlier than usual by leaving my house at
6:30 A.M. and arriving at the trailhead while the air was still cool.
Unfortunately, both of us had left our wrist watches at home so we had no way
to tell the time. The hike to the cave was uneventful except that we had to
wear our rain pants to keep from getting soaked from the heavy dew while
walking through the tall grass.
When
we arrived at the cave we unloaded our packs, then went to the equipment cache
to retrieve rope pads and webbing. We rigged my 600-foot PMI, then rigged
Jim's 300-foot PMI Flex and 85-foot Bluewater II which we tied
together with two water knots. We planned to complete the survey of the Big
Room and to survey the pit as we ascended out on 2 separate ropes.
Jim rappelled first and I followed. When I reached the bottom Jim was donning his ice-climbing equipment which he had stored in the cave the previous weekend. As soon as he was geared up he climbed the snow cone starting on the left side. He set survey points about every 20 feet as well as in front of any prospective leads that might need surveying later. We made eight shots in all with all of them emanating from station 00 in a fanlike shape.
At the top of the snow cone, on the left, was a
small lead that we had seen every time we ascended the pit. At the top and
center of the snow cone was a small lead trending upwards that we hadn't seen
before. Near the top of the snow cone and to the right was another lead we had
seen while ascending on previous trips. We had never checked out any of these
leads because the footing would be too dangerous for anything except ice-climbing
equipment. During his survey however, Jim found a route down the right side of
the snow cone. This route was composed of very loose alluvium, mostly soil and
small pebbles. He descended without his crampons and returned to station 00 to
sketch.
While he was sketching I climbed up the mud slope to
the unchecked leads. The lead on the right continued back about 30 feet then
pinched out at the bottom of a breakdown filled crack. The lead on the left
turned out to be only a frost pocket as Jim had indicated it appeared to be.
The lead at the center required a scramble up about 8 feet, then a wriggle
through a small opening into a larger room. The room was a doline with a
ceiling extending up at least 100 feet. The diameter of the doline looked to be
about 12 feet. On the other side of the doline the crack through which I had
crawled continued for about 10 feet before ending in a boulder choke. The lead
was blowing air while the pit was taking air upward. Also, the crawl back into
the Big Room was taking air. One more lead possibility exists in the doline. It
is a lead about 15 feet off the floor on the north side. It will require bolts
or a better climber then I am to explore the lead.
I returned to the Big Room where Jim was still
sketching the survey. It wasn't long though before he was finished and we began
to rig up to survey out the pit. The only trouble was that we didn't know how
to take compass readings accurately with the survey shot in the vertical
position. We decided just to plumb the pit using the tape measure. I started up
my rope first with the tape case hooked to my waist with a biner. Jim followed
me with the zero end of the tape 'binered to his seat harness. It took at least
an hour to ascend the pit, with me going up 100 feet to the end of the tape,
then waiting for Jim to come up beside me to be shown the unmarked
"survey" location. We iterated this three times for a plumb depth of
248 feet, plus another 44 feet at an angle, plus another distance from the
start point of the ascent down to station 00. The total vertical distance of
the pit according to our plumb was 315 feet. We were disappointed because we
thought we had at least a 350-foot drop.
When we exited the cave we quickly unrigged
everything, packed our packs, reburied the webbing and rope pads in the
equipment cache, and ate some supper before hiking out to the car. With wet
ropes, little food all day, lots of vertical work, and 80-pound packs,
our progress to the car was extremely slow. We estimated our arrival at the car
to be about 10:00 P. M.
I
drove as fast as I felt was comfortable and safe so that we could get to a
telephone in Logan to contact my wife since we were at least 6 hours overdue. I
didn't want the search and rescue group called out because of lousy timing on
the part of Jim and me and the lack of having a timepiece.
More secrets of Nielson's Well would have to be
revealed another day.
ELEVENTH TRIP
The eleventh trip to Nielson's Well
was a solo by Jim Nicholls. His main objective was to carry large amounts of
dried foods such as ramen, Granola bars, and dried split peas for storage in
the cache near the cave. His trip was uneventful.
TWELFTH TRIP
I made a sightseeing trip to the cave with my wife,
Linda, and my 15-month old daughter, Katie. Linda carried our lunch and
extra jackets. I carried Katie in our child backpack. The hike was pleasant and
now Linda feels she could help a rescue crew to the location if necessary.
THIRTEENTH TRIP
Jim Nicholls, Rod Horrocks, and I set out about 7:30
A.M. on Saturday, October 31, 1987 to push the second pit. As usual we drove to
the parking area and began the long, slow hike to the cave. Jim and I carried
the lion's share of the gear since Rod's pack is a small, external frame style
and could not accommodate the necessary share of the gear for a trip to
Nielson's. We estimated our loads at about 70 pounds while Rod's was estimated
at about 50 pounds. We arrived at our camp area at about noon, set up camp, all
ate heartily of carbohydrates and hot soups. We changed into our cave clothes,
walked to the cave and rigged the rope.
I was the first person on rappel. Rod was to feed
the transmission wire for the FM radios down the pit while I was rappelling so I
could keep the wire from hanging up on anything. I rappelled about 20 feet past
the first ledge and saw the wire, but could not reach it. I told Rod to pull it
up part way and try again. After several tries without successfully getting the
wire to me, Jim went to help Rod.
While they were trying to get the wire over the
ledge to me I was hanging on "locked" rappel in a 300-foot pit.
I don't like to hang above "nothing" so I started to get grouchy and
yelled at them to get their act together. Finally, the wire reached me but the
weight at the end of it broke free. I stuck the free end of the wire in my
mouth and rappelled down the pit. I stopped at the resting ledge. As I backed
over the ledge to continue the rappel, the wire snagged on something and broke.
I rappelled to the bottom of the snow cone and called "Off rope" over
the radio. The radio still worked even with a broken wire. I looked at my
watch. It was 2:30 P.M.
Next down the rope was Rod. He had borrowed some
gear from Jim and wasn't familiar with it, so his rigging time was slow. He
made it to the bottom of the pit uneventfully. Jim rappelled down last.
However, just as he was beginning to rappel we lost
radio contact, forcing him to come down silently.
We
were already an hour behind our desired schedule so we hurried up to the Bone
Lead and scrambled to the brink of the second pit. Jim and I rigged the second
pit from a large boulder about 30 feet back up the Bone Lead. We used two
pieces of webbing around the boulder with two 'biners hooked onto a loop in the
rappel rope made by a figure eight knot.
Jim
was chosen to drop the virgin pit first. While he was rigging his gear I
carried the rope down the Bone Lead belly crawl to the brink of the pit. The
rope was coiled in a five-gallon bucket but somehow had become tangled
while it was feeding out. Rod was unable to free the tangle and so we spent at
least 20 minutes untangling the whole mess. There was no lack of harsh words
among a couple of us (Ed. Note: I sure wasn't one of the two). We had been in
the cave almost 3 hours and hadn't even made it to the bottom of the second
pit. Things were happening too slowly.
After our heated argument Jim rigged up and dropped
over the lip of the second pit. The lip consists of a fault crack with
projections jutting into it. The projections caused difficulty in backing into
the pit. Jim finally was rappelling however; going slowly, he described to us
what he could.
Rod rigged up next and rappelled down the pit. He
also had trouble getting past the projections in the fault crack. Finally, it
was my turn to have difficulty with the fault crack, but I rappelled to the
bottom successfully.
At the bottom of the second pit were large,
automobile-sized breakdown boulders. The smaller breakdown fill was
extremely loose and breakdown slides occurred frequently when walking on it.
The south wall at the bottom of the pit had a thin wall with a square window in
it that looked into another room. The room was a doline whose ceiling connected
with the ceiling of the pit we had just dropped. We were trying to decide what
to call the twin doline room and jokingly mentioned "Zoobie Well" as
a name. Rod of course is a Zoobie. Square Window and Twin Domes, as well as
others, are still being considered.
Jim climbed down through the breakdown while Rod and
I climbed upward to check out other leads. My lead ended in a breakdown filled
passage. I suspected it was originally a passage into the Big Room above before
being filled in with breakdown material. Rod's lead petered out also. Jim found
a short pit at the bottom of the breakdown. It was difficult enough that we
rigged it for a rappel. The drop was 15 feet at the most so I did an arm-wrap
rappel while Jim and Rod did 'biner-wrap rappels. At the bottom of the 15
foot pit was a passage that led into the room that we could see through the
"Square Window". There were no leads off the second doline.
Back at the bottom of the 15-foot pit was a
fault crack that I could look down and see a continuation of at least another
30 feet, approximately 20 feet down a scramble. At the bottom of the scramble I
could see a room opening up. Its floor was covered with washed pebbles. The
entrance to the passage was through the fault crack. It looked too narrow to
negotiate but I thought I would try it any way. I didn't get very far. The
crack was too narrow and I was quickly defeated in my efforts to push the
passage.
While waiting to exit the room, Jim noticed at least
one bat on the wall. Unfortunately, we had discovered him too late and he was
beginning to stir. From then on we tried to be quieter but soon we saw the bat
flying around the room.
We had explored everything we could find so we
started the survey trip out to the Bone Lead where the last survey point from
the July 4th trip was located. I climbed first while carrying the tape. At the
lip of the pit at the bottom of the fault crack, I saw a football sized rock
rolling down the crack directly at my face. Somehow, I was quick enough to
block it with my hand. I struggled up through the crack past the protrusions
and freed myself from the rope. I sent one end of the tape measure down the
pit. The pit measured 69 feet deep. Rod was next up the rope and again, because
of unfamiliarity with the borrowed gear, he took quite a long time. Jim
followed Rod while Rod protected Jim from the falling rocks that continued to
dislodge from the fault crack at the top of the pit. When the three of us were
at the top of the pit, I began to unrig the rope while Jim and Rod finished the
survey. We packed our gear and made a quick retreat through the Bone Lead to
the Big Room.
I was getting quite cold so I moved ahead of Jim and
Rod. As soon as we arrived at the rope I clipped on and began to ascend. I
hadn't eaten while in the cave although I had food with me. While ascending I
began working too hard, then overheated and became weak and nauseous. I had to
stop and cool down at the resting ledge for about 10 minutes. Twice, while I
was climbing, the untethered transmission wire became tangled in my Jumar and
Gibbs ascenders rendering them useless until I freed the snarls. The climb out
took me 40 minutes, twice as long as usual.
Rod Horrocks, sitting on Register Rock in the Big
Room. He is adding his name to the discovers original register. Notice the
expedition-weight Capalene that Rod is wearing, the 36-39 degree
temperatures in the cave make this a requirement.
Rod
ascended after me. During his ascent I went back to the camp and boiled some
water and drank lots of hot chocolate and ate some food. Then I went back to
the cave to assist Rod at the pit's brink. His exit from the Big Room took an
hour, at least 15 minutes of which was due to re-rigging unfamiliar gear.
Rod also hauled out a five gallon bucket full of survey equipment, rope pads,
and other gear.
Jim exited the cave last without any problems but
still taking 30 minutes. He was off rope at 3:15 A.M. on Sunday morning. We
were all just plain tired out. After more food and hot drinks back at our camp,
we crashed about 4:00 A.M. in Jim's tent. It rained the rest of the night
having started just as Jim was getting out of the cave. It was still raining
when I awoke about 8:00 A.M.
When we finally all got up about 9:00 A.M., the rain
had stopped. Once again, we cooked up lots of food and drink and stuffed
ourselves. We broke camp and after a tiring, three hour hike we made it to the
car.
We had finally dropped the second pit but we were
strongly disappointed because the cave didn't appear to continue, at least not
without some hard digging and chipping (Ed. Note: This lead, called Blasted
Crack by Jim, is a good lead, however, it is probably impossible to enlarge it
enough for human passage).
FOURTEENTH TRIP
Jim and I made a reverse haul trip to Nielson's Well
on Sunday, November 8, 1987. Since we knew there were bats in the cave we had
to assume that at least some of them were hibernating there. We decided no more
trips would be made until bat hibernation was over. In light of that, Jim and I
traveled to the cave to retrieve the four remaining buckets of gear and food as
well as other odds and ends that we had stored near the campsite. Nielson's
Well would remain our secret for one more season.
FIFTEENTH TRIP
Jim and I planned our last trip to Nielson's Well
for May 14, 1988. We were going to finish up the survey in some previously
missed areas, plumb the ceiling, and try to push the lead that was taking air.
I purchased 30(? feet of 30 gauge, insulated copper
wire and made a reeling mechanism for easier handling of the transmission wire.
I had also bought 300 feet of 2 pound fishing line and a helium filled, Mylar
balloon.
As usual, we left my house about 7:00 A.M. and made
it to the parking area about 9:30 A.M. However, we encountered some snow drifts
on the road and had to put chains on the front tires of the Jeep to get to the
parking area. With 80 pound packs, we wanted to drive as close as possible to
the trailhead!
Three hours later, after hiking up snow-filled
Left Hand Canyon, Jim and I were gearing up for the drop. We had rigged the
rope and the transmission wire and made a radio check. Everything was
"GO". Jim dropped first onto the snow covered first ledge of the pit.
He set the third rope pad and went over the edge into the tube. ICE! Everywhere,
on all sides of the pit, ice had formed about 2 inches thick. There were no
foot holds. There were, however, numerous icicles that broke at the slightest
touch and shattered against the walls of the pit as they plummeted down through
space. Jim slid down the ice (on rappel) for about 80 feet until he finally
encountered rock walls. Finally, just before reaching the Resting Ledge, he
encountered a small waterfall. It was water that had collected from the melting
snow and ice above and had converged in a crevice to create a fall about 6-12
inches wide. It was running steadily and Jim was immediately drenched. Jim said
he could hear another waterfall somewhere in the Big Room below, probably near
the base of the snow cone where a large scallop is present as witnessed on
previous trips.
We discussed the situation using the radios and
decided to quit the cave. We had always had a dry rappel before and even though
we were prepared for several hours inside the cold cave, we were not prepared
for any amount of time in the cave while wet. To make things even more
dangerous was the warm day and the ice in the tube. It could all come crashing
down at any second, taking us or the rope with it!
Jim set a Jumar and attached his ascending gear to
the rope. While doing so, his Gibb slipped from his hand and slid down the
rope. He replaced his lost Gibb with a prussik and slowly climbed out. The ice
was much more difficult to climb up than it was to rappel down. Jim finally
climbed over the brink and unrigged his gear. I tried to reel up the
transmission wire but it promptly broke and fell back into the pit. Jim had
told me earlier that it was tangled up with the rope at the resting ledge.
Thirty gauge wire is just too small for use in Nielson's Well. When we pulled
the rope up out of the pit, Jim's lost Gibb and most of the transmission wire
were tangled around the knot in the end of the rope.
We packed our gear and started the hike back to the
car. The hike was uneventful except that the snow in the ravine had softened in
the hot sun. We were now sinking in up to our knees about every fifth step
instead of every 15-20 steps as was occurring in the morning.
This fifteenth trip was supposed to culminate our
secret exploration of Nielson's Well. We failed in our attempt to accomplish
our goals, but there is always next time!
SIXTEENTH TRIP
Jim, his wife Alyson, and their son Heath, all made
the hike to Nielson's Well on Saturday, July 16, 1988. Of course, 11-month
old Heath made the trip on his dad's shoulders.
Jim had lost his carbide light on the previous trip
and thought he might have left it at the brink of the pit while packing his
gear. Their family hike proved fruitless in terms of finding the carbide light
so they returned to their van. Nevertheless, the day was a pleasant family
outing.
Jim later found his carbide light at the bottom of
his backpack.
SEVENTEENTH TRIP
Once again, we were going to try to get to Nielson's
Well to finish the survey. It was August 27, 1988 at 7:30 A.M. when Jim
Nicholls and I left my house headed for Logan to meet Mike Beer. Mike met us as
scheduled and we all headed for the cave. Upon arriving at the parking area, we
divided the gear into equal weights for carrying. We also divided the 600 foot
PMI rope into three coils of equal weight.
We started up the trail, tied together by the
segments of rope, and Mylar, helium-filled balloons wagging in the
breeze. Making good time, we arrived at the cave about 1:00 P.M. We set up
camp, such as it was, and prepared to go in the cave. By the time we had hung
the transmission wire (this time, vinylinsulated, 22 gauge) in the cave, rigged
the rope, and checked out the radios, it was 4:00 P.M.
Mike was first down the pit. He made
a slow rappel to prevent the wire from tangling with the rope. Jim followed
Mike, breaking the transmission wire, but leaving enough in the Big Room to
provide good radio contact. They began to survey the remaining portions of the
Big Room; the Alcove, Horrocks' Balcony, the lead at the top of the snow cone,
and the doline at the top of the snow cone.
At the 6:30 P.M. radio check they had already
completed the survey of the alcove and the lead at the top of the snow cone.
The next radio check was to be at 9:30 P.M. While I was waiting on the surface,
I bolted an aluminum cave name tag to the west wall of the entrance pit. Later,
I walked to the rim of the canyon to watch the sun set, then I returned to camp
to take a nap. At 8:30 P.M. I heard a sharp whistle. I scrambled out of my
sleeping bag and horned to the cave. Jim was just climbing over the brink of
the pit. He told me they had finished all of the survey. Instead of waiting
until the 9:30 radio check, he had decided to climb out and tell me so that I
could enter the cave to take photos and to try to push the lead that takes air.
I quickly donned my gear and made a fast rappel to
the bottom. I knew Mike was probably getting cold. I hurriedly unpacked my
camera so we could start shooting. I took several time exposure shots and
several single exposure shots of the Big Room and of the blowing lead and the
sucking lead.
After taking the photos, I plumbed the ceiling using
the two helium-filled Mylar balloons. Together, they lifted a 6-pound
test fishing line 82 feet from the lowest point in the Big Room to the ceiling.
With the photos and the ceiling plumb completed, it
was time to try to push the lead that takes air. My first approach proved
futile because I entered facing the wrong wall. I backed out and turned around.
The second attempt, with my helmet off, was successful. I was able to easily
make it to the point of my forward progress of the push I made on Trip 2. My
progress after that was virgin cave. I rounded a tight comer and entered a slot
about 20 inches wide and 30 inches high. After 10 feet it pinched to a low
crawl about 8 inches high and 18 inches wide, filled with rubble.
Interestingly, the rubble was made up of broken speleothems such as
stalactites, flowstone and cave bacon. I moved some of the rubble and squeezed
through into a small room about 12 feet high and 20 inches wide. The air was
moving into the passage with enough speed to feel it easily.
As I progressed through the room, the passage
abruptly ended. At first look, I thought all the air was going up through
ceiling cracks. Wanting to be thorough, I chimnied up to the top of the room.
There I saw that the passage continued, tighter than before. For 10 minutes I
pushed, exhaled, moved rock, and thought "skinny". Finally, I
squeezed through the constriction into a passage about 2 feet wide and 3 feet
high. The end of the 15-foot long passage opened up into a room about 8
feet in diameter with a floor below me about 10 feet and a ceiling above me
about 6 feet. I didn't enter the room, though, because a bat was trying
desperately to enter the passage I was in and my presence had it very confused.
I had the passage blocked with my body and the bat was trapped. Also, I was in
an extremely tight passage and knew that if I got into trouble, Mike, who is
quite a bit larger than I, could not come in to help me. I struggled backwards
through the tight, virgin crawl into the Big Room. I decided to name this lead
the Bat Trap.
Mike was getting cold after nearly 8 hours in the cave
and he wanted to head to the surface. He ascended first. I took a couple of
photos of him while he climbed. I ascended after him, carrying a duffel bag
full of survey gear and camera equipment, and of course, my balloons.
I climbed out of the cave just after midnight, into
a brightly moonlit forest. I was sweating profusely from the long, hard climb.
I removed my gear, drank lots of water, and after a while, cooled down. Finally
around 1:00 A.M. we all crawled into our sleeping bags and drifted off to sleep.
I awoke at 7:30 A.M. and Jim and Mike woke about
8:00 A.M. We unrigged, coiled the rope and wire, packed our backpacks, then ate
cold breakfast. We started our hike back to the car at 10:10 A.M. After 2 1/2
hours of hiking, we were loading our packs into the car.
At Last! We had finished the exploration and survey
of Nielson's Well. We had accomplished all of our major goals which were: find
the cave; explore and survey the Big Room, the Bone Lead and the Twin Domes
(the name we finally settled on). Other goals which we completed were to push
several of the leads, devise a communication system from the surface to the Big
Room, legally recover the animal bones, and keep the location and work secret
from other cavers until our work was completed the way we wanted it done.
We realize that there are at least four leads which
may or may not continue the cave. One is at the bottom of the Twin Domes and
will require extensive chipping to widen the crack. Blasting is too dangerous
because of the loose breakdown surrounding the area. The second lead is the Bat
Trap which probably continues, at least for the miniature caver (Ed. Note: Good
air movement in this one). The third is a possible lead 15 feet off the floor
of the 70 foot high doline. This doline can be entered from the top of the snow
cone. The fourth and final lead, is a narrow slot that could be bolted to ten feet below, the Resting Ledge in the
entrance shaft.
Nielson's Well is an extremely dangerous cave for
several reasons. First, because the entrance pit is so deep, a caver must be
intimately familiar with his gear (borrowed gear just does not suffice).
Second, The cave itself is extremely cold. Hypothermia is a major concern and
only wool or polypropylene clothes should be worn in the cave. Third, the hike
to the cave is very difficult, especially when one must carry all his own
water; dehydration is inescapable. Compounding the danger is that dehydration
advances hypothermia. Fourth, the cave itself is constantly producing rock fall
within the Big Room. Every time I have been in the cave, I have heard rocks
falling somewhere within the Big Room, sometimes only a few feet away. Finally,
if a person should become injured or unable to exit the cave on his own power,
any rescue attempt most probably would become a body recovery. Hypothermia
would most likely be the cause of death. The reason would be due to the
logistics and the long time it would take to notify authorities, organize a
rescue, and return to the cave.
Over the past 2 1/2 years, Nielson's Well has been a
challenge, often discouraging and painful, but sometimes very rewarding both in
growth of one's caving abilities and in one's philosophy. I don't anticipate
entering the cave again. I've completed what I set out to do. I'm satisfied
with my accomplishment. Now I feel that a safer cave is more to my liking. As
for Jim, Mike, and Rod, I can only guess what their intentions are, but I think
as long as Nielson's Well is there, they will probably be going there, too.
SAFETY &
TECHNIQUE
RECOMMENDATIONS
FOR
NIELSON'S WELL
By Jim Nicholls
(NSS# 15216)
Nielson's Well is, at the time of this publication,
the deepest, single vertical shaft in Utah. It is, for all I know, the deepest
single-drop vertical pit in the western United States.
It's realm should not be taken lightly or with too
much confidence. Every time I have visited the cave, I have met a different set
of problems and conditions. I have returned more a dozen times during the past
12 months because I experience a humbled awe no other cave in Utah can match.
The cave environment is typically alpine. It is a
hypothermia high risk cave with no easy way back to the surface, if you become
overwhelmed. Any rescue attempt in retrieving a victim would require all the
resources of the cave search and rescue organizations in the Intermountain
West.
The main shaft has appeared stable so far and does
not present any risk of large rock fall or collapse. The cross section of the
shaft is large and can best be described as "TAG Like" in its
proportions. The two main ledges are a nuisance and rob the pit of its
potential of being a free drop all the way from the surface, the last hundred
feet or so are the "best". The final drop heightens the spelunker's
senses to an acute condition. (What happened to the walls? Where did they
go?") The "snow cone" is a common feature in other alpine caves
of the area and while providing a needed smear of color at one end of the large
breakdown-filled Big Room, it also creates a host of problems for which
most vertical cavers might not be prepared.
I do not believe any checklist of basic or luxury
items should be published to ensure a safe and comfortable time at Nielson's
Well. What anyone who reads this should realize is that there is no margin for
incompetency or inexperience in this cave.
There is no easy method of communication from the
top of the pit to the bottom. The first trip was very spooky. I was not able to
communicate with Ken Stahley except by shouting at the top of my voice. If
slightly incapacitated or hypothermic, I might not have been able to let him
know of my condition. I doubt that whistle signals would make the situation any
safer. Any sound wave traveling up the pit will encounter all kinds of
interference along the way. We have never been able to successfully shout back
and forth and understand what the other was trying to say.
As far as I am able to tell, after spelunking in the
Intermountain West for 4 years, bats found to be hibernating in an alpine cave
environment are unique. Bats have been encountered in this pit. Is it essential
for their well being to shun the use of personal twoway radios or should it be
left to one's personal preference? No matter what the personal cost of a
communication system, the flying mammal's welfare is more important. Not being
a zoologist, familiar with bat population studies in Utah, I would recommend
that their privacy be honored and respected. A moratorium on visitation to the
pit should be observed by all cavers between of October through June.
Voice activated two-way radios have proven to
be an asset in maintaining clear and instant communications between the surface
and the far side of the Big Room, at the bottom of the shaft. I can recommend
two simple and inexpensive modifications that will enhance and protect the
communications system.
When the conditions in the cave are very wet and
humid it would be wise to keep the radios inside ziplock plastic bags. If the
units become wet, their performance may be degraded. The use of duct tape and several
rubber bands will help in the sealing of the bags. Be sure to tape the voice
activation switch "open" to ensure that it will remain on during the
descent. A transmission wire is a small gage wire that allows the radio signal
to travel unimpeded up the shaft to the surface. The wire can become entangled
the your rope while descending. Some ingenuity is required to devise a smoothly
operating reel that enables the caver to take the transmission wire down the
shaft as he rappels.
Ken Stahley, Mike Beer and I have tried various
techniques of "laying" a transmission wire down the shaft. Each time
was a marginal success. What may be needed is for the first descending caver to
rappel to the first ledge. There, the wire should be lowered to him. The first
descending caver should carefully attach it to his shoulder or helmet and
gingerly drop the pit. Once at the bottom of "snow cone" and out away
from the rope, the caver should take the transmission wire to the nearest wall
and secure it. If it can be installed in such manner, then subsequent cavers
could safely rappel and ascend without becoming entangled in the transmission
wire.
The cave air temperature is similar to another Utah cave,
Jim Peck's Ice Cave. It ranges from 35 degrees F to 39 degrees F. It is colder
than Little Brush Creek Cave. Anyone not wearing the maximum weight in wool or
polypropylene or even Capalene underwear will not enjoy themselves in Nielson's
Well. Large areas of ceiling drips and small waterfalls have been encountered
sometimes and then not found again other times. You will get wet and should be
prepared not to get chilled. A metal-lined thermos bottle filled with hot
cocoa or tea, a hardy lunch, a small piece of ensulite or foam, a large trash
can liner, a carbide lamp or numerous candles and a ballaclava should all be
considered "basic" items to help the last person waiting at the
register rock keep from drifting off into never-never land while other
cavers ascend.
Your personal vertical gear should be capable of
operating soaking wet, covered with slime, and occasionally frozen. The
delights of the snow cone may provide an interesting backdrop for photos, but
it also creates some problems. Depending on the type of rope used, the
ascending caver has to fight a portion of slack rope when starting the climb.
All static ropes stretch to some degree. During the beginning, cavers will
"march in place" to walk out the slack. In doing so, the caver will
stomp up and down in a mud-hole. The bottom edge of the snow cone is
similar in consistency to chocolate mousse. Consequently, the rope becomes very
slimy. As the ascending caver achieves some progress up the cone, the mud on
his boots and ascenders is carried up also. The first caver up the rope has the
least difficult time, but what is left behind makes the remaining cavers'
climbs a real chore.
Jumars have to be "thumbed along" until
you break free of the "ice-slime" and reach the free vertical
portion of the rope. After the free ascending position is achieved, the rest of
the ascent is easy. I strongly urge anyone who does not own a sewn harness and
sewn accessory straps not attempt this cave. Under conditions just described,
hand-tied knots may come loose and pose a real danger to the user and all
those involved. A well made, store-bought harness or well designed, hand-stitched
harness, tested for conditions similar those found in Nielson's Well, should be
considered a "basic item."
At least two rope pads are necessary to properly rig
the pit. The first lip at the surface requires a 4foot long pad. The edge is
almost a 90-degree change of direction with several sharp parallel
ridges. The second recommended pad should be located 30 feet down at the second
ledge. That location demands rope protection because of the 15-degree
change in direction the pit makes. From there, the rope unavoidably follows the
shaft wall. While dangling 300 feet below the second lip, the actions of
climbing are transferred up the rope. The bobbing and jerking motions cause the
rope to move back and forth across the second ledge. The rope will be subjected
to constant sawing action against the dolomite if a pad is not used at this
location.
Any attempt at a rebelay to avoid using rope pads at
the second ledge would demand a level of technical rock climbing skill that no
caver in Utah possesses. Any attempt at a rebelay at the second ledge would
expose the caver to a risk few cavers should have to endure. Sturdy rope pads
that can be secured to the pit walls are an absolute must for this and any pit.
If you do not possess the proper equipment or have
not achieved the required experience of deep vertical caving, please do not
attempt to test your skill at Nielson's Well. Vertical caves similar to
Nielson's Well are common in the Tennessee, Alabama, and Georgia (TAG) region
of the eastern United States. While caving in Tennessee, I was fortunate to
have successfully dropped many of them repeatedly. I offer these
recommendations to the Utah caving community hoping they are not considered too
"genteel."
PALEONTOLOGICAL
DISCOVERIES
IN
NIELSON'S WELL
By
Rodney D. Horrocks
(NSS# 25107)
After obtaining a paleontology permit, Jim Nicholls, Ken Stahley and I took a reconnaissance and collecting trip on July 4, 1987, to Nielson's Well. On an earlier trip, while surveying in the Big Room, Ken and Jim had discovered a lead that was blowing air. They didn't enter it due to time constraints, but it was duly noted in their survey. During a later trip to the cave Mike Beer and Ken entered the lead and discovered that the lead contained several skulls of small mammals. The lead is located where a breakdown pile intersects the cave wall. The lead has since come to be known as the Bone Lead. Realizing the importance of the find, Ken and Jim contacted the only paleontologist-caver they knew that had vertical experience. I was more than glad to help them out, and not long after, found myself at the bottom of a shaft more than 300 feet deep inspecting the find.
From the start I realized that the find would
represent a puzzle. Located on the west side of the Big Room, the Bone Lead is
at the top of a steep and unstable pile of breakdown about 30 feet high. At the
entrance to the lead, is a pile of dirt that appears to have originated
somewhere inside the lead. It has the distinction of being the only dirt found
thus far in the entire cave. Inside the lead the same soil deposit is found
throughout the maze of incompletely explored small crawls. The deposit
continues until the second pit, Twin Domes, is encountered. The paleontological
remains are found in the dirt crawls and at the bottom of the 70 foot deep Twin
Domes.
Mixed in with the breakdown in the Big Room are
numerous decaying logs. Jim had reported to me that he had seen what appeared
to be charred logs on ledges 40 feet above the floor of the Big Room. He
postulated that the room might once have filled with water, floating logs onto
the ledges. Unlike most large breakdown rooms, this room has breakdown around
its edges and a debris filled bowl in the center. These facts must be
considered when attempting to come up with an origin for the bones in the Bone
Lead.
Upon inspecting the deposits, I noticed that many of
the skulls had post-cranial material associated with them. In the Bone
Lead, the post cranial bones tended to be slightly disturbed and scattered,
however, not to the point of making correlation with the skulls difficult. At
the bottom of Twin Wells, I found the entire skeleton of a porcupine laid out
in exactly the position it probably had died in. I also found a couple more
rather well articulated porcupine skeletons.
Most of the skeletons turned out to be-porcupine. However, one partial badger skeleton was found. One of the most unusual finds was a complete wolverine skull with no associated bones. The wolverine skull was found slightly buried in the sediment, with full lower jaws and all the teeth still intact, certainly an enigma! In relatively recent times, the wolverine has become extinct in Utah, a fact that adds interest to its discovery in Nielson's Well.
My first guess was that wood rats were responsible for the bones being taken into
the cave. This could also explain the dirt. However, I found none of the
customary gnaw marks on the bones to substantiate this theory. More
importantly, the skeletons wouldn't have been articulated if brought in by
rats.
My next theory was that a connection, such as a
sinkhole to the surface, had somehow introduced the bones into the cave. After
searching, I was able to find some small chimneys in the ceiling of the Bone
Lead, thus adding credence to this theory. However, no significant chimneys
were found in the two trips taken to explore the Bone Lead Maze.
My next theory looked at water as the medium of
transportation for the carcasses. However, saying that the animals must have
fallen into a water filled room and then floated up and into a very small and
insignificant side passage, seems unlikely. Although I did not see any
paleontological remains in other parts of the cave, with a more thorough search
we would undoubtedly come up with some. So there might be something with this
theory.
My next theory took the form of a now blocked
horizontal connection with the surface that leads into the dirt crawls of the
Bone Lead. This would have allowed animals to enter the cave under their own
power. Such an entrance would have to have been on the side of the mountain
some distance away (since the current entrance shaft is now on top of the
mountain). This is still a possibility, because the Bone Lead maze area might
have some digs that could lead to more cave. At this point, it is obvious to
me, that in order to narrow the field of theories down to just one, more field
work must be completed.
After carefully mapping and photographing the find,
I collected the skulls and associated bones and placed them in Zip-Lock
baggies with an identification number that correlated with my map. The baggies
were then packed into a 5 gallon plastic bucket filled with styrofoam peanuts.
By tieing a sling around the bucket, and the bucket to a Jumar, I was able to
ascend out of the entrance pit with the bucket hanging below me (Ed. Note:
Unfortunately, the end of the rope got caught on the bucket and I pulled the
rope up with me as I ascended. By the time I reached the top I was carrying,
unknown to me, the entire rope up the pit. I remember wondering why the bucket
seemed to get heavier and heavier as I climbed! By the time I neared the lip of
the sinkhole, I was using nearly all my energy just to move up a few inches at
a time).
Once back at the BYU Earth Science Museum, with
mammal skulls and post-cranial bones in hand, I cleaned, numbered, and
then cataloged each bone into the Cave Vertebrate Collection. Identification
down to genus was accomplished at that time. However, what has been done thus
far is strictly a preliminary study (Ed. Note: By contacting the curator of the
BYU Earth Science Museum, the bones can be viewed).
FM RADIO
COMMUNICATION
IN NIELSON'S
WELL
By
Mike Beer (NSS# 16938)
Background
Nielson's Well is a shaft cave (315 feet deep) with
a large room (approximately 120 feet wide x 170 feet long x 80 feet high) at
the bottom. These characteristics make verbal or whistle communication
difficult, particularly with people in the large room. The sound tends to fill
the room, rather than be directed up or down the shaft.
At the point I became involved with the exploration
of Nielson's Well, one of the other cavers (Jim Nicholls) had decided to try to
use a set of FM radio headsets that he had purchased for surface work. When he
used them on the entrance rappel, they worked well for about the first 200
feet. However they then faded abruptly and were useless in the Big Room.
I had an experience in Papoose Cave in Northern
Idaho where FM radio communication had been possible in and near a short pit
during a mock rescue. The mock rescue organizers said that the FM radios worked
in the cave because of the presence of a field telephone wire. On the next trip
to Nielson's Well, I took a spool of 28 gauge, insulated magnet wire, and
lowered the end down alongside of the first rappeller. The end of the wire was
left hanging into the Big Room by about 20 feet or so.
The results the wire produced were much better than
those experienced in the mock rescue. Not only did radio communication remain
clear while on rappel, but it was possible to communicate from anywhere on the
floor of the Big Room to the surface. There were some areas in the Big Room
that had minor fading, but moving a few feet would get out of the fade area.
This provided excellent communication for rope management, and quite a
psychological boost for the people waiting to ascend since they could easily
converse with the surface crew.
This experience made me wonder about the differences
and similarities between the two times that I have used FM radio in a cave. I
believe that I may understand what is happening, and would appreciate hearing
from other people about good (and bad) experiences in other caves to help
refine my understanding. What follows is somewhat speculative since I have made
no quantitative measurements, but it provides an operating model that will
serve for at least this discussion.
The Physical
Setup of Nielson's Well
The Nielson's Well entrance is a large surface opening
of the cave's shaft. It is approximately 30 by 50 feet in area. The first 100
feet of the shaft are nearly this dimension, with the next 100 feet tapering
gently to about 8 feet in diameter until the shaft intersects the ceiling of
the Big Room at about the 200-foot level. The shaft enters the Big Room
at one end. The radios were consumer-grade headset versions with voice-activated
keying, operating at about 50 Megahertz (MHz). The input sensitivity of the
front end is not known to me. They were identical in outward appearance to the
ones that had been used in Papoose Cave.
Nielson's Well
as a Wave Guide
The 50 MHz operation places the radio's wavelength
at about 20 feet in free space. This is a small enough wavelength, relative to
the size of the opening of Nielson's Well, for the shaft to act a waveguide,
until the shaft diameter becomes less than one wavelength (assuming TE and TM
propagation in a fundamental mode).
I believe that this explains why the radios could
not work at all without the wire in the narrow portion of the shaft. The walls
of the cave are wet and may have sufficient conductivity to provide a lousy
wave guide that does not attenuate too much. The 200 feet to the fade out point
in the shaft is about 10 wavelengths, and if the situation were extremely
attenuative, communication would be difficult this far down the shaft. The
diameter reducing to less than a wavelength at 200 feet would cause the radio
wave to be reflected back up the shaft. These type of reflections often occur
at less than one wavelength.
Nielson's Well
as a Transmission Line
Dangling the wire down the shaft changes the situation quite a lot. I believe that wire in the shaft causes the shaft and wire to act as a transmission line. 50 MHz is not far from the frequency of broadcast television. Cable companies' coaxial cable and TV antenna leads work quite well at transmission line dimensions much smaller than the 8 foot diameter of Nielson's Well shaft. Calculating a characteristic impedance for such a transmission line is difficult due to the uncertainties in material and dimension.
Transmission lines must be properly terminated to
get much energy down them. In retrospect, we probably provided this termination
by dangling the wire in the shaft and into the Big Room. I assume that the
signal couples from radio to wire through a combination of near field antenna
and transmission line radiative loss, setting up a standing wave on the wire. I
also suspect that the room acts as a cavity resonator driven by the portion of
the wire hanging out of the ceiling. The room's dimensions are quite a bit
larger than a wavelength, and I suspect that some sort of standing wave could
form between the walls and ceiling. Presence of a standing wave would also
explain the fade areas that seemed to occur locally in the Big Room.